American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Piton Failure and Fall on Rock—Quebec, Val David, Mont King

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1977

PITON FAILURE AND FALL ON ROCK—Quebec, Val David, Mont King. On August 1, 1976, Julien Belanger (20) was leading la Traversee on Mont King and anchored himself to a piton on the highest part of the slab. While he protected his second, the piton came out from under his foot. He rolled down the cliff about 60 feet and was stopped by his rope, which jammed under a flake. He had a deep cut on his left elbow and damaged the ligaments of his right foot. (Source: Julien Belanger)

Analysis. While no information is immediately available, three questions come to mind. Was the piton tested? Was the age of the piton known? Was there an opportunity to use more than one anchor point? (Source: J. Williamson.)

This ANAM article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.