AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Fall on Rock and Inadequate Equipment—Ontario, Bon Echo Park

FALL ON ROCK AND INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—Ontario, Bon Echo Park. Richard Lamb (16), who had climbed for 3 years, was making a first ascent solo at 1230 hours on August 27, 1976. He was using a Gibbs ascender as a self-belayer, which was attached to his seat harness by a nonlocking, light-weight aluminum carabiner. When he was about 25-30 m above the ground, he fell, and the gate of the carabiner was torn off by a lateral force. He fell to the ground and suffered a fractured skull, brain hemorrhage, and a broken wind pipe. He was dead on arrival at Kingston Hospital. (Source: I. Varmuza, B. Lamb.)

Analysis. A locking carabiner and /or a safety sling is commonly used by solo climbers in these situations. (Source: J. Williamson.)