American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall into Crevasse—British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Illecillewaet Glacier

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1977

FALL INTO CREVASSE—British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Illecil- lewaet Glacier. James Tutt (24) and a companion were attempting to climb Youngs Peak on skis on March 30, 1976, ascending the Illecillewaet Glacier and descending the Asulkan Glacier. They had no rope, ice axe, slings, etc., with them. At 1330 hours Tutt fell into a cornice crevasse. His companion was not able to retrieve him, and went down to Rogers Pass for help, arriving at 1445 hours. The first rescue party was flown to near Lookout Mountain at 1600 hours in storming snow and wind with zero visibility, but the second party could not land because of the bad weather. Another party flew in at 0745 hours the following morning, but visibility deteriorated again and the third party could not go until 1100 hours. The victim was found at 1210 hours and was removed from the crevasse at 1315 hours, suffering from hypothermia and injuries. He died at 1335 hours. The body could not be evacuated until the following morning because of the bad weather. (Source: J. L. Trunbull.)

Analysis. If proper equipment had been carried the victim may have been rescued immediately, or could have had more clothes put on him. (Source: J. L. Turnbull.)

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