Fall on Rock and Piton Failure—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Frontal Range, Yamnuska

Publication Year: 1977.

FALL ON ROCK AND PITON FAILURE.—Alberta, Rocky Mountains Frontal Range, Yamnuska. Jim Bay and Dan Griffiths were climbing the Direttissi- ma on July 1, 1976, and Jim who was leading slipped and fell about 30 feet. His top protection, a soft iron piton, broke, and he was stopped by his second protection, a nut. In falling, his ankle fractured when it hit a small ledge. He was rescued by the Calgary Mountain Rescue Group. An attempt to carry equipment and personnel to the top of the cliff by helicopter failed because of high wind, and all equipment had to be carried on foot. The injured man was pulled about 110 feet to the top of the cliff by two 9-mm ropes using sack hauling techniques with three men on each rope. (Source: L. P. Michaud.)