This is the thirtieth volume of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the first that has been edited and published jointly by the American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada. The first volume was published by the AAC in 1948, and since 1961 it has been prepared in conjunction with the ACC and published by the AAC.

More than the usual number of accidents in Canada are reported, partly because of the inclusion of accidents that occurred in previous years but were previously unreported, but largely because a more extensive system of collecting reports was set up. In addition, the Canadian editor has preferred to report briefly on several accidents, rather than at length on fewer. Most of us have, fortunately, little direct experience of mountain accidents, and if we remain fortunate, learn to avoid accidents more from vicariously experiencing others’ accidents than from directly experiencing our own. It is in order to increase this vicarious experience that several brief reports have been published.

There were many more USA accidents reported this year than last as well. This is due to the fact that our network of willing contributors has grown, and for that we are appreciative. Another factor this particular year seems to have been that the bi-centennial inspired a number of not very experienced climbers to venture beyond their limits. McKinley accounts for the lion’s share of such incidents, as will be seen. We have included many more narratives, though we could not possibly print them all, in order to show a spectrum from which one can draw some conclusions about accident causes. There are some interesting similarities which transcend geographical districts.

In reviewing a number of “near miss’ statistics over the past few years from some of the parks and from a number of schools and programs which include climbing as a part of their activities, two factors stood out very clearly. There were many close calls which involved loose rock dislodged by people, the climbing rope, and nature. The hazard greatly increased when there was a guiding situation where up to ten people were in a coulior at the same time. The second area of potential mishap has been in ski mountaineering, which has become very popular. There were numerous falls with full packs on, and many of these led to sprains and fractures. These and other near miss situations may not appear in our statistics or narratives when no injury occurs, but we will try to bring them to light as we see patterns developing.

The editors wish to thank all those who have contributed, and invite any additional support in the form of data or suggestions. We are especially grateful to the following individuals. Canada: John F. Wurflinger, Helen Bunding, Ian Findlay, Evelyn Moorhouse, Ron Matthews, Lyn Michaud, Denis Gravel, Helmut Microys, Hector MacKenzie, and Pat D. Baird. United States: George Sainsbury, Howard Stansbury, Bradley Snyder, Dennis Burge, Peter Hart, T. C. P. Zimmermann, Alfred Braun, Robert Palais, Henry Ledyard, Benjamin

J. Ferris, Ruth Mendenhall, Joel White, Jim Wilkerson, Tim Setnicka, Carl Heller, and Bob Gerhard.

John E. Williamson, Editor/USA E. Whalley, Editor/Canada

Nottingham Square 175 Blenheim Drive

Nottingham, New Hampshire 03290 Ottawa, Ontario

SAFETY COMMITTEES 1976 THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB

Lynn K. Buchanan, Dennis K. Burge, Benjamin G. Ferris Jr., George R. Sainsbury, Bradley J. Snyder, Howard E. Stansbury, Richard F. Wilcox Jr., John E. Williamson.

ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA

E. Whalley and Helmut F. Microys