Nut Failure—California, Yosemite, Washington Column

Publication Year: 1976.

NUT FAILURE—California, Yosemite, Washington Column. Thomas Beck (28) and Ken Baldrey (23) were attempting to climb the South Face of Washington Column (V 5.8, A3) using only nuts. On the third pitch, Beck was leading and pulled out a small stopper, zippering at least seven or eight other nuts he had placed as protection. Beck fell all the way down to the belay ledge where he struck Baldrey. Beck broke his ankle severely. (Source: Tim Setnicka, NPS, Yosemite.)

Analysis: This account demonstrates that the use of nuts and cams placed for protection are still in the developmental stage for many climbers. Unlike pitons, nuts may only be good in one direction of force. Unless jammed, or even sometimes hammered, they are not as bomb proof as one might hope. Additionally, while not part of this accident, those nuts requiring runner loops have an additional hazard. At least one climbing accident reported this year included runner rope failure as a result of using the wrong kind of knot. (Source: J. Williamson.)