California, Mount Whitney

Publication Year: 1974.

California, Mount Whitney. Eric Eichmann (ago 20) and Don Pfirmann (24) were part of a group of six University of California at Irvine students camping at East Face Lake and climbing various routes on Mt. Whitney. On December 20th Eichmann, Pfirmann, and another two-man rope started the ascent of the East Buttress route, normally a one-day climb of about six fourth and easy fifth class pitches. The other team reached the summit and spent the night in the building there. Eichmann and Pfirmann bivouacked about halfway up the route, beneath a huge block known as the “Pewee.” They were seen at the Pewee on the morning of the 21st as storm clouds closed in. They continued to climb through the twelve-hour storm. Eichmann fell while leading on easy rock about 200 feet below the summit. Although it was a fall of less than ten feet, it became serious because he struck his head. He was carrying a hardhat but not wearing it because it would not fit on over his parka hood. In spite of Pfirmann’s first aid efforts, Eichmann died after several hours. Pfirmann bivouacked and on the next morning attempted to finish the climb. He fell, injuring his hand slightly. This injury, together with the fact that he did not know the difficulty of the remainder of the route and the descent back to camp, persuaded him to return to a ledge where he waited until rescuers arrived. The other four members of the outing party remained at camp on the night of the 21st and all day the 22nd. On the 23rd two men started down the mountain for help. They reached Lone Pine at about noon on the 24th but waited until dark in hopes of seeing a “good news” flare to be sent up from the camp. Seeing none, they contacted the Sheriff and the China Lake Mountain Rescue Group that evening. A rescue team reached East Face Lake by helicopter on the morning of the 25th. They were able to hear calls coming from the mountain. A party of five, including two members of the outing group, started up the easy route, reached the summit, and descended to Don Pfirmann at about noon. Although he had suffered severe frostbite of the hands and feet during his three days and nights of bivouacking, Pfirmann was able to descend to the lake under his own power. He was evacuated by helicopter. (Sources: Dennis Burge, Al Green.)

Analysis: Eichmann and Pfirmann started their climb with an unusually large amount of equipment: two one-man tents, hammock, aid slings, thirty carabiners, numerous pitons and nuts, one full-length and one half-length sleeping bag, heavy cameras, and three days’ supply of food. Thus encumbered, they progressed very slowly and were overtaken by the storm. In retrospect it appears unwise to have forfeited their capacity to move quickly. As it happened, the sleeping bags were lost in Eichmann’s fall, the stove failed to function, and Pfirmann’s own clothing became wet and lost its insulating value. Obviously, hardhats should be worn as well as carried, and winter climbers should arrange to keep their heads both warm and protected. Winter conditions make the climbing itself more difficult, and they multiply the consequences of injuries. After the accident, Pfirmann might have been able to descend by himself if he had been familiar with the route. His friends apparently took so long to act because they knew Eichmann and Pfirmann were well equipped and expected to move slowly. Had they climbed up to search and give direct assistance, Pfirmann might have been reached days earlier.