American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Moran Canyon

  • In Memoriam
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Mt. Moran. On 13 August Doug Mains (18) and Jim Yeates (20) were down climbing the Chicago Mountaineering Club Route on Mount Moran following a hailstorm at 1430. They were unroped and Mains was leading. They were hurrying as a result of the inclement weather. At the 12,000-foot level Mains looked up and saw Yeates tumble by in the air and disappear out of sight over the convex face. Mains then climbed down quickly and at the notch between Drizzle- puss and the West Horn, he observed Yeates’ body 150 yards out on the Falling Ice Glacier at the 10,700-foot level. Yeates had apparently slipped on the wet rock and lost his balance, falling about 1,300 feet to the glacier below. Mains then continued climbing down and reported the accident at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station at 1900.

Source: Pete Hart, GTNP.

Analysis: Haste induced by the deteriorating weather conditions caused the party not to rope up. If the party had been roped and the down climbing had been belayed, the accident could have been prevented.

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