Alberta, Mt. Yamnuska. On 2 May John Kula (22) and John Martin (29) began climbing the Redshirt Route of Mt. Yamnuska (rated II F6) in the morning. Martin had not climbed this route before, and John Kula had climbed only the first two pitches previously. They climbed a little slowly, and lost time at several places due to difficulties finding the route. It was about four or five p.m. when they arrived at the register and belay point for the final pitch. As Martin had belayed Kula to that point, Kula continued on to lead the pitch. He traversed right to an outside corner, clipping in to two protection pitons (in place) en route. Immediately upon rounding the corner he ascended vertically about 10 feet. There were no pitons there, and Martin suggested that the route was further to the right. He agreed, and began to descend and/or move to the right. A moment later he fell. Martin saw a few rocks coming out from the face, and heard the sounds of the fall. The force of the arrest pulled Martin from his ledge and pulled out his anchor piton (the same piton that held the registration box.) It was the only piton that he could find at that belay point. Martin had tested it briefly and thought it sound. Martin pendu- lumed downwards and came to rest a few feet out from the face and about 15 or 20 feet below the first traverse piton. John Kula was suspended about three feet away from the face and about five feet below Martin’s level. Martin still held the belay. He shouted, “John, are you O.K.?” Kula replied that his handhold had come out, and that he wanted to reach a ledge that was a few feet below his foot level. He kicked the air a bit in an attempt to reach it. Martin let a little rope out, but only succeeded in lowering himself, so he continued as there was an angled ledge (about four or five fee) directly below him. Martin then looked back at Kula and saw that his chest harness was quite high, and that his arms were over his head. Martin shouted loudly, something like “John, hang on! Don’t let your chest harness slip! Don’t slip!” His only reply, a second or two later, was a cry of despair. A moment later he slipped silently and motionless from his harness. Simultaneously Martin was no longer counterbalanced on the rope and fell onto the ledge for which he had been maneuvering, and had no difficulty in hanging on. It was easy to regain the belay ledge where he tied himself down for the night. He was rescued the following day.

Source: John Martin.

Analysis: (Martin). A number of factors became causes in this accident:

This was our first climb together. We had met towards the end of last season, at the Abbot Pass Hut in Banff. We talked then of climbing together. I believe this was an important factor in the accident. We simply did not know each other well enough to be considered a good team, or to understand our various reasons for climbing. To illustrate, I was under the misunderstanding that John had completed the route previously. I did not discover the truth until we had reached the end of the second pitch, John’s former point of maximum advance. After clarifying this point, and experiencing route-finding difficulties for about an hour, we were preparing the rappel down when we were passed by a good team that knew the route. This encouraged us to continue the climb.

There are other aspects to this cause. For example, John’s enthusiasm persuaded me to attempt this route, one I would normally be quite hesitant to try as a first climb of the season. This was John’s second or third climb of the season.

Possible mild shock from initial fall. Exposure was extreme.

Chest harness possibly tied too loosely. According to climbing guide Hans Schwartz of jasper, this would have to be the case. John had slender build.

Nylon shell worn under chest harness. The danger of the shell’s low friction did not occur to me until after the accident.