Mt. Rainier Curtis Ridge Operation. On 13 June a party composed of Gary Fredrickson (27), Glen Fredrickson (20), George Dockery (37), Carl Moore (34), and Pete Sandstedt (22), began an ascent of Curtis Ridge via St. Elmo’s Pass. On Sunday 15 June they surmounted the direct aid dihedral and began the ascent of the gullies and chutes above. Exit from the steep face of Curtis Ridge is gained via a steep ice gully, and in attempting to gain this gully the party strayed from the route on to rocky boulder-studded terrain that became increasingly steeper. At approximately 12,000 feet rock fall struck the upper rope, composed of three persons, causing them to fall several hundred vertical feet, where the rope snagged around an outcrop. George Dockery was killed in the fall. Gary Fredrickson was bruised, and Pete Sandstedt was dazed and battered and received some injuries.

It was not until the following day, Monday, that air reconnaissance located the party in its bivouac. The Rainier north side ridges, and especially Curtis, have traditionally been considered rescue nightmares, due to the long approach and steep snow and ice slopes. In addition, on Curtis Ridge approach from below was further hampered by the direct aid pitch, a great challenge to the capacities of the average rescuer. Access from above was only by descent down a 45° snow gully on to the face of the Ridge, which is stratified with gullies and rock bands, with the snow frequently consisting of several inches of snow over ver-glass. By late afternoon of Tuesday, a Park Service team had climed, via Steamboat Prow, up the Emmons Glacier to the saddle below Liberty Cap, where they were joined by three Mountain rescuers airlifted by Coast Guard chopper. The latter worked their way down the snow finger and established voice contact with three climbers sitting on a small bench below a 150 foot rotten rock cliff. Warm weather was causing constant rockfall by this time. Because of their precarious position, a request was made for a chopper reconnaissance of an attempted direct horsecollar lift-out. Turbulent air prevented such a move. More manpower arrived through additional airlifting to the saddle above the peak. After considerable difficulty, the party was able to reach Pete Sandstedt. Fortunately Pete, without an ice axe or crampons and with a dislocated right arm and limited vision, was able to climb out of his position of exposure with a good belay. This included an ascent of a difficult piton pitch. The other three victims were raised to a point where they were able to ascend to the Saddle Camp and were airlifted out the following day via Alpine Helicopters Supercharge Bell. Sandstedt followed under his own power with substantial assistance, to Saddle Camp, where he was also airlifted out. Turbulence had subsided to a point where it was possible to effect a chopper lift-out of the body, with much assistance from the ground.

Summary: The key to this effective rescue was utilization of highly competent high altitude climbers from four rescue units and the Park Service. High quality ground-to-ground radio contact, as well as air-to- ground contact, was essential. Coordinated chopper and ground movements expedited the speed of a rescue that otherwise might have been impossible.