Washington, Mt. Rainier

Publication Year: 1970.

Washington, Mt. Rainier. On 15 June Gary Fredrickson (27), George T. Dockery (37), Peter T. Sandstedt (21), Carl Moore (34), and Glen Fredrickson (20), were climbing the Curtis Ridge. The first three were

on one rope and the other two on another. The team was well equipped but was plagued by misfortune. Earlier they had had a severe rain storm that had soaked part of the sleeping gear and clothing. On the day of the accident, they had elected to leave camp late because of the weather and they made slow progress once under way. The scene of the accident was reached in late afternoon when the loose rocks were becoming unstable. A rock slide apparently was started by the party and a large boulder struck Sandstedt a glancing blow that knocked him off his feet and pulled the other two men on his rope off their feet. The three fell some distance down the ridge with Gary Fredrickson on one side of the ridge. Dockery caught on a small rock out cropping and stopped the fall. He apparently was killed instantaneously. Moore and Glen Fredrickson climbed down to Gary Fredricksons position, and secured his rope so that he could be released. They lowered Sandstedt to a ledge where he was relatively secure until the rescue party arrived. Dockery was just at the edge of the cliff. His body was brought up and secured. Their non-appearance set off their rescue which was accomplished a day or so later. (See Rescue Section).

Source: James B. Valcer, Mt. Rainier National Park; Hal Foss.

Analysis: This route is notorious for its loose and falling rock. It is, therefore, seldom attempted. Possibly a better analysis of the weather conditions and their effect on the route should have been considered. This route has much loose rock that is best climbed while frozen during the earlier part of the day. The day of the climb, however, was windy and the party elected to delay departure from high camp until the wind had subsided on the route and they had warmed up.