California, Yosemite National Park

Publication Year: 1969.

California, Yosemite National Park. On 29 August Tom Gerughty (21) was cleaning the last pitch of Sickle Ledge Route on El Capitan while using Jumar ascenders. He reclipped the right Jumar at the start of the pendulums and the left Jumar released and knocked the right Jumar loose. He fell 100 feet holding the rope with his hands and stopped because he was tied off at the end around his waist.

Source: Steve Hickman, Yosemite National Park.

Analysis: There have been other reports of Jumar ascenders failing in the past. If Mr. Gerughty would have considered this fact he might have been more cautious when he reclipped his right Jumar. He could also have been on a belay, but this is not a normal practice when cleaning with Jumars in Yosemite. Had he not been tied, this would have been a much more severe accident.