California, Yosemite National Park. On 17 October Karel Dohnal (26), was leading his first direct aid climb on the Camp Four Tree route. He had placed direct aid pitons to a position approximately 25 feet up the vertical wall. He then placed a direct aid piton into the crack, stood on it, and it pulled out pulling two more pins below it as he fell 25 feet to the base. He suffered a hip fracture and a spiral fracture of his femur.

Source: Robert Pederson, Yosemite National Park.

Analysis: Mr. Dohnal should have followed a few direct aid climbs being nailed by an experienced person before he set out to do direct aid himself. Considering that he had done no direct aid before he should have placed more pins for protection that could withstand the force of a long vertical fall. He also did not test the pin well enough before he stood on it and took his fall. The degree of experience necessary in the safe nailing of direct aid is sometimes overlooked by beginning climbers because of its seemingly easy appearance.