British Columbia, Northern Selkirks. On 16 July Sargent Janes (41) Reed Markley, Penny Ohler and Bill Pratt, members of the 1968 AMC Selkirk Expedition, were returning to Fairy Meadow cabin via Friendship Pass after climbing Pioneer 10,660 feet by the East Ridge. The accident occurred as a result of rockfall while descending unroped over a steep band of loose rocks separating two snow fields near the bottom of the Shoestring Glacier. While James was attempting to locate the best descent route, a 2 foot diameter boulder broke loose immediately above him. He was forced to make an uncontrolled leap in order to avoid being crushed. He managed to avoid the boulder, but having lost his balance, Janes fell backwards and landed headfirst on his back on a pile of large rocks about 15 feet below. Fortunately, Janes did not sustain any serious injuries other than a number of bad bruises and was able to walk to the cabin. He was wearing a hard hat and climbing pack which undoubtedly did much to prevent serious back or head injuries.

Source: G. Sargent Janes.

Analysis: Better route finding would obviously have prevented this accident; however, this party was attempting to find the easiest means of descending over the rocks at the time. Janes did not actually touch the boulder before it broke loose. Such an accident can happen to anyone and the wisdom of wearing a hard hat even on non-technical routes was again demonstrated. It is also interesting to speculate on the role of the climbing pack in preventing a serious back injury. The use of a rope might have prevented a fall, but it would have increased the probability of rockfall and might well have hampered Janes’ ability to dodge the boulder.