Alaska, Mt. McKinley. The winter McKinley party composed of Jacques Batkin (36), Gregg Blomberg (25), Arthur L. Davidson (22), John S. Edwards (35), Raymond Genet (35), David P. Johnston (24), Shiro Nishimae (31), and George Wichman (39), flew to 7,400 on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on 29 January and began ferrying loads up the glacier unroped. Some used skis or snowshoes, some not. At noon on the 31st Batkin and Johnston had just finished a lunch break and Johnston was ahead on snowshoes as they packed loads toward a new campsite others were preparing about 8,100 feet on the main Kahiltna. Batkin, who was carrying a very heavy load and not wearing skis or webbs, fell through a hidden crevasse. Johnston did not know it but those above looked down to see one approaching where two had been before and soon all were assembled at the hole which was blocked by Batkin’s pack. Johnston jumarred in immediately and found Batkin caught on the second ledge some 50 feet down. He rigged a sling around him by which the others pulled him to the surface while Johnston jumarred up. Although he was out within half an hour of his fall, Dr. Wichman pronounced him dead of head and chest injuries.

Source: J. Vin Hoeman, Gregg Blomberg

Analysis: (Hoeman) Always rope on a glacier where the crevasses are thinly hidden. If impossible or impractical, skis or snowshoes will help. (Blomberg) The area in which Batkin died was later found to contain a number of well-concealed crevasses. The slot into which he fell was just barely wide enough for his body to enter. Had he been wearing snowshoes or skis he probably would have passed over the crevasse. The party had considered the possibility of crevasses but by mutual agreement we were packing loads unroped. Future winter expeditions should remember that crevasses are an even greater danger than they are in the summer. There is no question but that a rope should be used at all times.

A few days after this incident, John Edwards (35) of our party took a roped fall into a crevasse after a heavy snow fall. Because of the soft snow on the surface and crevasse walls, the rescue proved very difficult. In view of these two incidents, I recommend that if possible, members should carry prussick handles and practice and thoroughly know simple pulley rescue techniques. Placing reliance on prussick knots or other self-help methods for crevasse rescue can led to disastrous consequences.