American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Miscellaneous Information, Table III

  • Accident Tables
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1967

Miscellaneous Information Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved



1951-65

1959-65

1966





U.S.A.

CAN.

U.S.A.–CAN



Terrain



Rock

536

24

46–4



Snow

293

26

27–0



River

3

0

0–0



Unknown

0

0

0–2



Ascent or Descent

(River crossing not included)



Ascent

405

28

35–2



Descent

368

21

34–1



Unknown

49

1

4–3



Immediate Cause



Fall or slip on rock

298

11

28–3



Failure of piton

20

1

0–0



Falling rock or object

79

7

8–1

1–0



Failure of rappel

45

1





Slip on snow or ice

120

10

13–0



Fall into crevasse

24

4

0–0



Loss of control in



voluntary glissade

40

3

3–0



Avalanche

61

7

3–0



Lightning

21

3

0–0



Stuck rope

5

0

0–0



Skiing

2

0

0–0



Faulty use of crampon

5

0

0–0



Fall in river

2

0

0–0



Exposure and/or exhaustion

42

1

1–0 0–0



Heat prostration

2

0





Illness, medical (including



pulmonary edema)

9

1

6–0



Exceeding abilities



(inexperience)

19

0

5–0



Miscellaneous



(including frostbite)

29

1

5–2



Contributory Causes



Climbing unroped

210

9

21–2



Climbing alone

53

4

11–2



Attempt to exceed abilities



(inexperience)

118

10

17–2



Darkness

10

0

1–0

2–0



Inadequate equipment

37

0





Old rope

4

0

1–0



Piton failure

13

1

1–1





1951-65

1959-65

1966





U.S.A.

CAN.

U.S.A.–CAN.



Bad weather

15

5

5–0



Exposure and/or exhaustion

10

3

2–0



Party separated

17

0

5–2



Age of Individuals



Boys

6

0

0–0



Under 15

24

1

0–1



15-20 years

261

12

33–0



“Young or college age”

14

1

0–0



21-25

186

4

14–2



26-30

84

11

4–1



31-35

61

1

9–0



Over 35

89

9

11–0



Unknown

78

11

2–2



Affiliation with Climbing Groups



Unaffiliated

211

9

21–2



Not stated

272

5

33–2



Member of mountaineering club.

340

36

19–2



Estimate of Experience



None or little

390

18

31–2



Moderate

Experienced

215

115

16

13

26–1 9–1



Unknown

102

3

7–2



Month of Year



January

25

1

3–0



February

43

1

2–0



March

31

0

2–0



April

46

1

6–2



May

67

0

5–0



June

91

2

7–3



July

185

29

13–0



August

151

14

14–1



September

75

1

11–0



October

41

0

2–0



November

36

0

4–0



December

19

0

3–0



Not specified

2

1

1–0



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