Alberta, Rockies, Tower of Babel

Publication Year: 1967.

Alberta, Rockies, Tower of Babel. On August 20, Brian Greenwood (32) and Charles Locke (21) were on the third day of a new face route on the Tower of Babel above Maligne Lake in the Rockies. They were leading alternately and were about 250 feet below the top of what Greenwood considers the most difficult rock climb yet attempted in the Canadian Rockies. Locke was leading at this point and had climbed 20 feet of a 60 foot overhanging crack (A4 standard), when the piton on which he was relying came out. Two other pitons pulled before a lower one held. He struck the be- layer’s ledge, and apparently broke his wrist. It later turned out to be dislocated with damage to the tendons and pinched nerves, causing fainting spells. The climb was well observed and although Greenwood considered completing it, the fainting fits decided him to call for help.

The National Park’s rescue team under Walter Perren was lifted by helicopter to the summit next morning; Warden W. Vroom was lowered by cable, and both men were taken up in a Gramminger seat.

Source: Greenwood and Sherman

Analysis: Greenwood said the injury was unfortunate; in most such falls the party would have continued climbing. Using bolts would have avoided the possibility of a fall, but this was not considered. Greenwood also notes that the efficiency of the rescue team was extremely high.