Alaska, Mt. Marcus Baker. On 22 June Helga Bading, John Bousman, Aaron Schnieder, and Ruth Schnieder (25) were ascending the Knik Glacier. While taking over the lead to break trail in waist deep snow Ruth stepped through a hidden bergschrund and fell approximately 30—40 feet hitting a projection during the fall with her left leg and side. She did not lose consciousness at any time and was able to assist in hauling herself out (they could not use the normal technique of two ropes with the person alternately standing in loops — or prussics — since Ruth could not stand on her injured leg). Since they were changing the lead at the time, Ruth’s rope was slack and allowed her to fall a considerable distance before the pull came on the rest of the party.

Source: John Bousman.

Analysis: We should have been belaying during the change of trail breakers since a person walking past a party would not have the protection of a tight rope as normally would be expected in continuous roped movement on a glacier. We miscalculated on the chances of crevasses in the particular area, so did not belay.