British Columbia, Coast Range, Tantalus Range, Mt. Alpha. Four climbers were descending a 100-foot snow slope at 6,500 feet ending in talus during an Alpine Club of Canada trip 4 August. Three completed standing glissades unroped in the soft snow.

Judith Orr (30) a club guest, fell within three or four feet but stopped herself with the axe. Trying to get up she fell again and went out of control. The axe cut her hand, necessitating stitches. The others stopped her before she reached the talus.

Source: Basil Dunell.

Analysis: (Basil Dunell) “Miss Orr should have had more practice in self-arrest on more gentle slopes. Use of rope would have prevented the accident, but conditions did not seem to warrant it, save in hindsight.”