Alaska, Mt. McKinley (3). On July 3rd John Hinde (34) and two others of the British Joint Service Expedition approached the summit of Mt. McKinley in the early morning. They were feeling the cold but not unduly and only a short distance remained, and they proceeded to the summit. The men returned to camp, and after warming up, Hinde apparently knew one big toe had been frozen. The toe required partial amputation upon reaching civilization.

Source: Richard J. Stenmark, Mt. McKinley National Park.

Analysis: The party report indicated a “crampon strap must have restricted the circulation to that particular toe.”

Addendum: Two members of the British Joint Service Expedition party suffered snowblindness as a result of wearing only amber ski-type goggles that did not give sufficient protection to the eyes.

Safety Committee, American Alpine Club, 1962

Benjamin G. Ferris, Jr., Chairman

Weston, Massachusetts



William L. Putnam 

Springfield, Massachusetts



Arnold Wexler 

Washington, D. C.



Richard Emerson 

Cincinnati, Ohio



Harold Walton 

Boulder, Colorado



Thomas O. Nevison

Albuquerque, New Mexico



Ross Petrie

Portland, Oregon



Frank C. Fickeisen

Seattle, Washington



David Harrah

Riverside, California



William Siri

Berkeley,California



William Davis 

Anchorage,Alaska



Alpine Club of Canada

Paddy Sherman

Victoria,British Columbia



Equipment Testing

George Austin 

Portland, Oregon