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Alberta, Mt. Victoria Glacier

Alberta, Mt. Victoria Glacier. On July 11, John Linn (about 40), Stanley Doane, and Ernest Feuz were returning from a climb of the glacier by their ascent route. Linn, as middle man, suddenly fell into a hidden crevasse but was arrested by Feuz and Doane after falling about 20 ft. Attempts at rescue were unsuccessful. Apparently Linn was dazed and unable to help. Feuz set up an ice-axe belay on Linn and told Doane to go for help. A rescue party was organized, reached the scene, and removed Linn from the crevasse about 3 to 4 hours later. Linn suffered frostbite of his finger tips and some bruises. He was, however, able to do further climbing later that season.

Source: Stanley Doane.

Analysis: This episode demonstrates the importance of the rope in areas where hidden crevasses can be expected, that three persons are a minimal number for this sort of climbing, and that a knowledge of and practice in the use of prussik slings might have simplified this rescue. The prompt and effective action of Feuz and the rescue group prevented this accident from having a more serious outcome.