California, Yosemite National Park, El Capitan. On April 12, Paul Delany (22) and Charles Raymond (20) attempted “the slack” route on the southwest side of El Capitan. The accident occurred on the second pitch. Raymond had just finished the most difficult part of this section and while attempting to gain entrance into a chimney dislodged a rock that fell and struck Delany on the head. Raymond lowered himself to Delany and under belay Delany rappelled to the ground. Prompt evacuation was effected and it was later determined that Delany had suffered a skull fracture.

Source: Paul Delany and Charles Raymond.

Analysis: (Raymond and Delany) The leader has the obligation to respect the exposed position of his belayer and others who are below him. He must recognize the potential danger of dislodging loose rocks. In addition, the belayer should take a stance that will give him maximal protection against falling rock. This is also an instance in which a hard hat would have minimized the effect. Incidentally, skull fractures are extremely painful and hard hats should be a required item of equipment. In addition the ability of the injured person to assist in his own evacu

ation facilitated the procedure and allowed prompt institution of adequate treatment and exposure was minimized.