Oregon, Mt. St. Helens—On June 6, 28 persons began a climb of Mt. St. Helens. This was the Tacoma Climbing Course’s experience climb. Equipment was adequate but climbing experience was limited. Three out of four persons would be rated as basic climbers with little experience on steep snow. For many, this was the first climb with crampons. There was no reserve of rope leaders.

The party roped-up at 7000 feet. Difficulties with loose fitting crampons, improper use of the crampons, and individuals traveling too close together were evident. At 8500 feet, for various reasons, six climbers turned back including the leader and three rope leaders. From this point three inexperienced climbers (George Cashman, Kathryn Cockrell, and Jim Stelling) made up the last rope. They trailed by some distance and were having trouble slipping on the steep snow just below the false summit (point penetration was reported as good by other climbers). At this point they turned back. On the descent one slipped and the other two attempted self-arrests but were yanked loose. The climbers cartwheeled down the slope at a high speed a distance of 3500–4000 feet (losing about 1700 feet in elevation) before being stopped by soft snow below the “Little Lizard.”

Fortunately, they stopped near the first party that had turned back. By this time the entire party was widely spread. The summit climbers did not know of the accident until they descended hours later.

The injuries consisted of the following: one had a severe sprain, one had two broken ankles, and one had a broken leg. All were badly shaken by the fall.

The leader and two others started down for help. Mountain Rescue was called at the rescue conference at Timberline Lodge. It took from 11:45 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. to get the message through.

An air drop of litters, sleeping bags, etc. was made-up at Timberline and flown to the scene by an aircraft used at the conference. Three teams were organized which left as a car caravan for Spirit Lake. A small group of rescue personnel from Longview arrived first and headed up the mountain. The actual evacuation worked smoothly and was completed in the early morning hours. The air drop was very successful. The party still on the mountain was able to prepare the injured for evacuation and start down with one litter.

Source: MORESCO Bulletin Vol. 2, Number 6; The Mountaineers, October 1959, pages 6–7.

Analysis: There were not enough competent rope leaders. The party was spread too far apart to help one another. A very weak group brought up the rear. There is a possibility that a taut rope might have ended the initial series of falls. The injuries probably occurred when the crampons caught in the snow, emphasizing that an effort must be made to keep crampons from catching during a fall on hard snow. If a leader has to go for help, he should appoint some individual to be in charge. With some knowledge of rescue techniques, the remaining party could improvise and start an early evacuation.