Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (3) Symmetry Spire, Jensen Ridge—On August 2, Frederick E. Wright, Jr. (19) and Frederick Medrick (19) were just starting to climb the Jensen Ridge on Symmetry Spire. Wright was leading and was 60 to 70 feet above Medrick. He had driven one piton for safety and was using a second piton that was already in place. He had tested the piton and thought it to be good, although Medrick felt it was unsound. From the second piton Wright climbed around a corner onto the face. There was considerable friction on the rope. After pulling up some slack, he attempted to take another step, when either the rope pulled him off balance, or his friction holds failed. He fell and pendulumed from the piton and hit his head. The upper piton pulled out, the second piton pulled out, and Wright finally stopped at the base of the wall. He landed on his chest and suffered internal injuries in addition to a fractured skull. The accident was reported by a climber from another climbing party that had witnessed the accident. The weather and climbing conditions were good. It is worth noting that the climber reporting the accident left the scene in such haste that he had very little specific information. He did not know who the climber was nor the nature and extent of injuries. His report was so exaggerated in most respects that rescuers were led to believe that the victim was dead.

Three Park Service climbers were sent up as soon as possible on the chance that the victim was alive. The accident was reported at 1:30 p.m. A three man team started up from Jenny Lake at 2:20 p.m. They arrived at the scene two hours later and found Wright to be conscious although dazed and frequently sick to his stomach. A long cut on the head was bleeding slightly. Wright was placed in a sleeping bag and made ready to travel by 5:00 p.m. Three additional rescue team members arrived at 5:15 p.m. Utilizing nine climbers who volunteered to help, the evacuation began using a suspension line to lift the stretcher from a deep couloir. Progress was slowed by the necessity of carrying on traverse and by loose rock due to recent flash floods. The stretcher arrived at the boat landing about midnight after seven hours of careful hand-carrying. Wright has since recovered from his injuries.

Source: Park Ranger, John C. Fonda, via Mr. Frank Oberhansley, Superintendent, G.T.N.P.; Frederick W. Medrick.

Analysis (GTNP): This accident again points out the danger of using old pitons. In addition, Wright appears to have been negligent in the placing of his own pitons. None held. Wright was using duraluminum pitons of a French make.

(Medrick)—Our chief mistake was to attempt such a climb, particularly as the very first pitch before we had had a chance to get sufficiently warmed up, unless we were in top condition and form. The Jensen Ridge is hard enough without making it more so on the very first pitch.

If Fred had followed the way we had considered as best, he might never have gotten into such a predicament. One elementary rule often forgotten is never to make a move that commits you irrevocably and from which you cannot retreat.

The second piton was a wedge that did not on later examination appear to have been in too well. Further, a sling under the overhang would have eliminated the problem of rope friction or at least reduced it.

When Fred fell, I might have slipped him a little more rope than I did (about a foot or so) and perhaps given a smoother dynamic. (I had had plenty of practices with a dummy and with actual leader falls in the past.) It is easy to speculate on what could have been done but the fact remains that one should have constant practice in dynamic belaying which I had not had for several months.