New York, Shawangunks (2)—On September 6, Bob Mathews (30), Peggy Mathews (34) (No relation), and Allen Smith (22) set out to climb the “Indecent Exposure”, a variation of the “Easy Overhang”. Bob and Peggy were not affiliated with any club. Allen, a member of the A.M.C., was not climbing with the club on this weekend.

Bob led the first pitch of the “Easy Overhang”. Peggy had considerable trouble and after reaching the ledge said, that the routes on the “Indecent Exposure” and the “Easy Overhang” looked more difficult than the next pitch of “The Baby”. This is not so. The “Baby” is considerably more difficult than either of the other two. The second pitches of all three climbs start from the same ledge.

Allen then started to lead the second pitch of the “Baby”. He clipped through the first piton about 20 feet above the ledge and began exploring off the route which had by now shown itself to be difficult. At one point, he touched or stepped on a rock that moved. A few minutes later, Allen again took hold of this same rock and it came loose. Allen and the rock fell from the ledge. Allen was held by Bob’s belay and the piton, but the rock, weighing 20 to 30 lbs., fell on Peggy’s head inflicting a cut in the scalp about 4 inches long. Allen climbed down or was lowered to the belay ledge where he untied. He then climbed down the first pitch unroped while assisting Peggy, who was belayed by Bob. Allen assisted Peggy to the “Uberfall” where first aid was administered by Cornie Miller and others of the A.M.C. group. Peggy was placed on a stretcher and taken by station wagon to St. Francis Hospital in Poughkeepsie, where she arrived about 1-1½ hours after the accident. The next morning, the report from the hospital stated that Peggy had a scalp wound, a minor concussion and no skull fracture.

Source: Robert W. Jones, Chairman, Rock Climbing, New York Chapter, A.M.C.

Analysis: It is the opinion of the writer and others that this accident was due to the carelessness and inexperience of Allen Smith. Even the best leader may dislodge a rock if it is precariously enough balanced but sound looking. It is doubtful that an experienced leader would again touch, and in this case, dislodge a rock which he had already tested and found to be loose. Bob, who was belaying on the ledge, and the leader also, knew the rock was loose, and should have certainly told Peggy to move to another part of the large ledge. Allen had been told in the past not to lead unless accompanied by an A.M.C. unlimited leader. On this occasion he mentioned leading in the presence of the writer just before starting the climb and was specifically told not to lead.