This is the thirteenth annual report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club. Only those accidents that occurred in the United States of America are included. In addition to the accidents of 1959, this report includes those reports of accidents occurring in 1958 that were not previously reported. The statistics have been corrected for those accidents.

Tabular data concerning the accidents are presented in the back of this report. The number of accidents reported in 1959 is one of the highest numbers reported. The number of deaths was the second highest reported. In two accidents there were two deaths—thus there were 14 accidents involving fatalities.

As has been mentioned before, the reporting of the fatalities is probably reasonably accurate, whereas the reporting of the non-fatal accidents is not. In order to increase the accuracy of reporting it is suggested that all minor and major accidents should be reported to the Committee on the accident report form but that the minor accidents and certain other accidents not resulting in a fatality should not be included in the annual report except as a part of the tabular material. This is, in part, due to the limitation of space, and also because not all of the accidents are equally valuable as educational material. Their educational value lies in the accretion of statistical data concerning causation, place, and conditions of accident. All fatal accidents, however, should be included in the descriptive portion of the report.

There were no marked changes in the causation of accidents this year. Certain points, however, do require emphasis. The first of these is the use of hard hats. Six of the accidents reported for 1959 involved falling objects. In some instances, the rock or object was so large or traveling with such a velocity that the wearing of a hard hat might not have affected the result. On the other hand, there were instances in which the wearing of a hard hat would have reduced the injury and possibly prevented it. Furthermore, there must be many instances in which wearers of hard hats have received considerable protection from them. It does seem reasonable, therefore, that climbers, especially those climbing in or on known loose rock areas should wear hard hats for their protection.

As in last year’s report we wish to emphasize that the design of the hard hat is important. It should be so constructed that the energy from the falling objects is absorbed by the hat and supporting material and not transmitted to the head. Many of the existing hard hats are most unsatisfactory in this regard. In addition, the hat must be comfortable; it must not interfere with vision or climbing activities, and it should be securely placed on the head. Despite the fact that there is some resistance to wearing a hard hat, largely among the “older” climbers, it is important that the desirability and advantage of these protective devices be realized by the “younger” climbers. The wearing of the hard hat may well permit them to become “older” climbers in due course and have their own pet likes and dislikes. Let us, therefore, urge all climbers to wear hard hats to protect them from this type of fallout.

The second matter that requires emphasis is winter climbing and death due to exposure at temperatures above freezing. Winter climbing is becoming more popular and may or may not be combined with ski touring. With this development there have been a number of instances of severe frostbite and a few deaths. All of these are preventable provided proper care is taken. Of most importance is proper equipment. Temperature and snow conditions are much more severe during winter climbing and are often comparable to conditions found on the higher peaks of the Himalayas in the summer. There is, of course, more oxygen present at the lower altitudes which is an advantage. On the other hand, the period of daylight in the winter is much shorter and thus the limited period of time for safe climbing must be recognized. Routes also are quite different from summer to winter and that easy summer scramble may become an extremely difficult and exposed climb under winter conditions. Extra clothing, such as dry socks, sweaters, and mittens must be carried in the event of an unexpected bivouac. If a bivouac is necessary, it will often be possible to dig into the snow for protection from the weather and the chance to change to dry socks and a dry sweater may also be life saving. Wet clothing does not have the insulating ability of dry clothing and the evaporation of the moisture removes heat from the body at the rate of 590 calories per gram of water evaporated; and last but not least in these warnings, the individuals climbing in winter must be in good physical condition and they should have had plenty of rest. (See Mt. Washington accident.) Good physical condition will not only permit the individual to withstand the stress of the abnormal conditions better, but add greatly to his enjoyment because the stress from the physical exertion will also be less.

The Cannon Mountain accident of the past year in which two boys died of exposure raises the question: How do such deaths occur? It is pertinent to point out that man must maintain his internal temperature within relatively narrow limits. If these limits are exceeded death may occur. Temperature is controlled by balancing the heat produced by metabolism, and the heat lost. If there is an excessive heat production as in fever or exercise in association with insufficient heat loss the body temperature rises. Conversely if there is excessive heat loss without a compensating increase of heat production the body temperature falls. This, in its simplest form, is how hypothermia is produced for some of the newer surgical procedures.

If an individual has insufficient energy stores within his body (sugar and fat), if he does not have similar stores in his pack (food), if he has inadequate clothing to prevent heat loss, and if he is frightened and anxious after a period of severe physical exertion such as climbing, the conditions exist under which he can die of exposure at temperatures of 40-45° F. This is most likely if these temperatures are accompanied by wind and rain. This occurs because he is unable to produce enough heat to compensate for the heat lost. His temperature slowly falls and eventually reaches a level which is incompatible with survival and death results.

That such occurrences can and do happen is attested to by the deaths on Cannon Mountain last year. That this is not a new phenomenon is shown by the past 90 years of experience on Mt. Washington, N.H. During this period 43 deaths have occurred in the Mt. Washington area. Of these, 24 may be classified as proper mountaineering accidents. Eighteen of these can be attributed wholly or in part to exposure. Of these sixteen (67%) occurred in the summer months (June, July, August, and September).

In all instances the individuals were poorly clothed, carried little or no food, were tired or exhausted, and were exposed to above freezing weather usually associated with wind and rain. This emphasizes that weather, physical condition of the individuals, and food and clothing are important items in survival.

Many persons reading this will still wonder how such deaths are possible since they themselves have traveled and camped safely under comparable conditions. They, however, were in good physical condition, and were properly equipped for the conditions encountered.

Under truly exposed conditions without shelter modern man is unable to maintain proper thermal equilibrium. There are primitive groups that as a result of adaptation can cope with extreme environmental conditions. The need to take proper precautions and to carry proper equipment for the worst possible conditions is part of the price we pay for “civilization”. Since we have attained this state as a result of cerebral development and using our heads, let us use our heads and not become over-confident of our prowess and lose sight of the forces of nature. It is possible to modify these forces in many instances so that we can withstand them.

In conclusion then—think of the possible dangers and conditions that may be encountered and be prepared for them; and protect your head with a hard hat.