American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Table II

  • Accident Tables
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1958

Accidents

Geographical Districts

1947-1956

1957



Atlantic States—North

22

3



South

2

2



Central

2

0



Colorado

45

7



Utah and New Mexico

5

3



Wyoming

29

6



Montana and Idaho

8

0



Arizona and Nevada

5

0



California

41

4



Oregon

22

1



Washington

39

19



Alaska

4

0



Practice Cliffs—all areas

14

4



Terrain



Rock

156

28



Snow

74

17



River

1

0



Unknown

6

0



Ascent or Descent

(River crossing not included here)



Ascent

87

22



Descent

112

22



Unknown

35

1



Immediate Cause



Fall or Slip on Rock

79

13



Loose Rock (handhold pulled out)

16

3



Failure of Piton

2

0



Falling Rock

22

5



Failure of Rappel

18

3



Slip on Snow or Ice

36

9





1947-1956

1957



Fall into Crevasse

8

2



Loss of Control in Voluntary Glissade

15

3



Avalanche

8

1



Lightning

3

1



Failure to Follow Route

2

0



Stuck Rope

1

1



Skiing

1

0



Crampon pierced clothing and/or ripped by

3

0



Fall in River

1

0



Unsafe Campsite

1

0



Exposure and/or Exhaustion

2

3



Heat Prostration

1

0



Unknown

13

1



Contributory Causes



Climbing Unroped

67

9



Climbing Alone

20

6



Attempt to exceed Abilities (inexperienced) 

31

6



Darkness

7

1



Inadequate Equipment

4

4



Old Rope

7

1



Size of Party



One

21

6



Two

59

9



Three

60

9



Four

22

10



Five

10

4



Six or More

37

7



Unknown

38

0



Ages of Individuals



Under 15

4

1



15-20 years

85

14



“Young or College Age”

40

1



21-25

55

14



26-30

26

8



31-35

21

6



Over 35

15

5



Unknown

21

2



Affiliated with Climbing Group



Unaffiliated

55

13



Not Stated

90

8



Member of Mountaineering Club

94

24



Estimate of Experience



None or Little

100

18



Moderate

38

20



Experienced

40

4



Unknown

60

3





Accidents



MONTH of Year

1947-1956

1957



January

4

1



February

5

5



March

2

1



April

13

2



May

13

3



Jun

14

6



July

35

8



August

43

7



September

24

7



October

11

1



November

4

3



December

3

1



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