American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Washington, Glacier Peak—Chocolate Glacier

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1958

Washington, Glacier Peak—Chocolate Glacier—On the Mountaineer Summer Outing, July 30, during the descent of Chocolate Glacier, Julie Balinski (33), while traversing between two crevasses, stepped backward and fell into the lower one. Her fall was arrested by the rope at about 25 feet. A number of climbers who had practised crevasse rescue methods were present and the victim was out of the crevasse in 10 minutes unhurt. The Bilgeri technique was used with ropes from both the upper and lower lip of the crevasse.

Source: H. L. Slauson; The Mountaineer 50: 10, Nov. 1957.

Analysis: This is another demonstration of the value of the rope on a crevassed glacier, and the advantages of a well trained party.

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