California, Yosemite (4)—On June 9, 1956 an accident occurred on the lower part of the Royal Arches on a pitch known as the “Bear Hug,” an open, high-angle chimney that is climbed mainly by friction holds. The party was on a standard and frequently used route. It consisted of two ropes of two climbers, all of whom were experienced rock climbers, and several of whom had been on this climb before. The rock was dry and the weather clear and warm. Clark McKemper (40) led the Bear Hug pitch belayed by Phillip Boetler from a ledge at the start of the pitch. Twelve feet above the ledge McKemper placed a piton for protection. About 12 feet above his piton he slipped and fell back to the ledge, landing on Boetler who was not, however, dislodged. McKemper suffered abrasions and an injured back but was able to descend under his own power aided by the other climbers.

Source: William Siri.

Analysis: (W. Siri). The pitch on which the accident occurred requires fine judgment and considerable skill. It is one that easily leads a climber to overextend himself because there are no intermediate resting points and continues as an unbroken friction pitch to the top. If McKemper felt at all uncertain he should have placed a second piton, though in fairness to him it should be added that the nature of the rock may have made this nearly impossible.