California, Berkeley—On April 3, 1955 Alfred E. Young (20) was involved in an accident at Pinnacle Rock, a site frequently used for training and practice by the Sierra Club. This, however, was a private climbing party and not sponsored or supervised by the Rock Climbing Section of Sierra Club. The rock is sound, about 25 feet high, and on the day of the accident it was dry. The rappel rope had been tied to a permanent, heavy, steel anchor and had been used several times prior to the accident. When Young started his rappel, the rope had accidentally become detached from the anchor. He used a seat sling and carabiner rappel arrangement and was not belayed. Young fell about 25 feet facing the rock, and landed on the sloping ground at the base, which helped reduce the impact. He suffered a fractured ankle, two sprained ankles, and torn ligaments in the groin. Recovery has been complete.

Source: William Siri.

Analysis: (William Siri) Rappel rope was not properly anchored and became detached from anchors before climber started rappel. No belay was used. General inattention to sound climbing practice.