Oregon, Mount Jefferson (1)—On September 6, 1954, Ben Oman (32), Sam Tompkins (42) and Robert Lee (42) climbed to the top of Jefferson by the East route, a climb which should be done only by experienced climbers. The trail marked with wands by a previous party attracted them. They had crampons, ice axes, and were roped. On the descent the weather began to close in. They had been moving one at a time, but then decided to move together in order to descend before the fog became too thick. Lee’s steps broke out and he pulled the other two down with him. They fell approximately 100 feet when the rope caught on a rock outcrop with Lee falling on one side and the other two on the opposite side. This arrested their fall and saved them from falling about 1000 feet into the bergschrund; two were knocked out. Lee was lacerated, Tompkins broke his fibula and Oman had a double break in the same area. Oman was given all the clothing the other two could spare and then they left to report the accident. A rescue party was organized and it was only by good fortune that Oman was found the next morning. If he had carried a flash light he could have been found the evening of the accident.

Source: John Biewener, who talked to members of the party.

Analysis: Inexperience coupled with hurrying to get off the mountain before the weather closed in.