American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (1)

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1955

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (1)—On August 16, 1954, Roger W. Hollander (23) with one companion had ascended Disappointment Peak by the usual route. In the descent they took a short cut to Theater Lake by way of a snow gully 25 ft. wide. They roped up. Hollander, who was first got out of control near the top and went into the rocks at the side and fractured his ankle. Several hours later they had gone only half way down the couloir when they were met by a party of seven who gave Hollander first aid, splinted his leg, tied him to a pack board, and then lowered him to the slopes below. The rest of the evacuation was accomplished by horse.

Source: Report from Mr. Thomas C. Miller, Acting Superintendent, Grand Teton National Park and Frank Mohling who assisted in the evacuation.

Analysis: This accident demonstrates how easy it is to get out of control on hard snow and how dangerous it can be in a narrow couloir with no runoff.

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