Analysis of Accidents

Publication Year: 1955.

ANALYSIS OF ACCIDENTS

A breakdown of the accidents that occurred during 1954 and the cumulative totals are presented as in the past years. No marked change is noted. The descent still seems to be more hazardous than the ascent. The proper use of rappels and glissading techniques must be taught to the climbers. If they have not been through a training period in these techniques they should not be allowed to use them on the club climbs, except during controlled training periods. The dangers of falling rock are more evident this year than before. Will Siri states that they have been using a strong plastic- impregnated helmet without a side brim. He further states that it has proved to be extremely comfortable and on several occasions wearers have been protected against falling rocks and have avoided head injuries in minor falls.

Failure of nylon shroud lines accounted for one accident this year. Mrs. Unsoeld pointed out that in the 1954 report insufficient emphasis had been placed on the ease with which nylon rope can be abraded. This is extremely important when nylon is used as a rappel sling.

Benjamin G. Ferris, Jr.

Weston, Mass., Chairman



William L. Putnam

Springfield, Mass.



Hans Kraus

New York, N. Y.



Hassler Whitney

Princeton, N. J.



Arnold Wexler

Washington, D. C.



John F. Fralick

Detroit, Mich.



John de LaMontagne

Boulder, Colo.



Edward R. LaChapelle

Alta, Utah



Ome Daiber

Seattle, Wash.



Russell McJury

Portland, Ore.



William Siri

Berkeley, Calif.



James Bonner

Pasadena, Calif.



Maynard M. Miller

Cambridge, England