New Mexico—Devil's Thumb, West Face of Sandia Mountains

Publication Year: 1954.

New Mexico—Devil’s Thumb, West Face of Sandia Mountains: On 8 August 1953, Hugh DeWitt (23) and three companions were climbing on the Devil’s Thumb the last 1000 ft. of which required the use of ropes. At about 300 ft. from the summit they decided to work in two ropes of two. DeWitt was leading the first rope and had left his belayer in a secure position. Because of inadequate belaying points 35 ft. above the belayer, DeWitt felt he had to go on. The cause of his fall was not clear since it happened so suddenly. DeWitt states that the rock here was sound although most of the rock in the Sandia Mountain is rotting and that the climbing was easy. He fell a full 70 ft. to a shelf 35 ft. below his belayer striking the cliff once. He hit the shelf just as his nylon rope tightened which presumably cushioned his fall. He suffered two broken bones in his left foot, a sprained right foot, and a compound dislocation of his right arm. Evacuation was accomplished the next day.

Source: Report of Hugh DeWitt.

Analysis: DeWitt feels that he should have protected himself with a piton and states that in the future under similar circumstances he would.