Colorado—Rocky Mountain—No-Name Basin, Sunlight Peak: On 5 August 1953, a party of eight under the leadership of Dr. Roger S. Whitney set out from the CMC-AAC camp to make the reputedly easy ascent of Sunlight Peak. Approaching the Needle Ridge-Sunlight Saddle from the north a course was taken intending to lead diagonally across what appeared to be

a névé slope with the hope of avoiding the ascent of an unpleasant moraine. When the border of this slope proved to be ice, it was followed on its up-mountain side for a distance until it became evident that the hoped-for snow suitable for step kicking was not going to materialize. Accordingly it was decided to descend across the snow patch—approximately 75 feet of soft snow on an ice base at an angle of up to 40 degrees, a slope on which the experienced could move with ease with the support of the ice axe and on which a man so equipped could with confidence support a fellow climber on the rope. Dr. Robert Wade (50) in front of the main party along with Whitney, was not so equipped, but felt that he could negotiate the slope unassisted. The proferred rope was declined with the statement that “Two men in the Sierras were killed doing just that.” He almost succeeded in his speedy and unsupported descent, but threw himself at the bottom to avoid a boulder and suffered bruises which spoiled his day even though he was able to continue the climb.

Source: R. S. Whitney.

Analysis: Avoid snow with an inexperienced and inadequately equipped party. Don’t feel bashful to ask for the rope and never refuse it when offered by the leader. Own and learn to use an ice axe and carry it on all climbs.