Accidents in American Mountaineering Seventh Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club 1954
The past year, 1953, with which this report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club deals was an average year when compared with previous years. The total number of accidents and deaths resulting from “mountaineering” activities which have been reported to this committee are listed in the following table.
Table 1
Year
Total Number of Reported Accidents
Number of Deaths
1947
15
11
1948
28
15
1949
17
9
1950
30
8
1951
18
4
1952
35
14
1953
23
13
Over these years there have been fluctuations both in the number of accidents and in the number of deaths. The factors which enter into these fluctuations are multiple and not the least of these is that the persons involved represent such a small number of the total number of climbers and of the man-mountain days that such fluctuations could be expected to occur by chance alone. Another factor is the increased interest in mountaineering as a result of the successful ascents of Annapurna by the French and of Everest by the British (with their attendant publicity) which stimulated more inexperienced persons to climb. Variations in the completeness of reporting the various accidents could also produce these fluctuations. Another possibility would be differences in defining what constitutes a mountaineering accident. In this and the previous reports there has naturally been some selection of the accidents and the truly non-mountaineering accidents, such as those involving hikers, have been omitted unless there was a definite lesson to be learned. In general if the intent has been to climb, then the accident has been included in the report. Furthermore, many minor accidents are never reported to this committee.
In the report of 1953 interest was expressed in man-mountain days. In an effort to obtain information on this, the various climbing organizations were sent questionnaires. About one quarter of the clubs responded. The committee is most appreciative of their cooperation and their soul searching efforts in producing the figures. It was felt, however, that the information obtained was insufficient and too tenuous to be the basis of any significant conclusions. Possibly as more such data is obtained over the years, a valid basis for conclusions will be established.
Geographical Distribution of Accidents:
1947-1952
1953
Atlantic States—North
8
3
South
1
0
Colorado
21
8
Utah
2
2
Wyoming
14
2
Montana
2
0
Arizona and New Mexico
3
1
California
16
1
Oregon
13
1
Washington
10
4
Alaska
—
1
—
23
Practice Cliffs All Areas
3
1
Terrain
Rock
66
15
Snow
29
7
River
0
1
Unknown
6
0
Ascent or Descent (River crossing not included here)
Ascent
26
16
Descent
45
6
Unknown
30
0
Immediate Cause
Fall or Slip on Rock
34
11
Loose Rock (handhold pulled out)
10
0
Falling Rock
9
1
Failure of Rappel
5
3
Slip on Snow or Ice
17
4
Fall into Crevasse
4
1
Loss of Control in Voluntary Glissade
5
0
Avalanche
2
1
Lightning
2
0
Failure to Follow Route
1
0
Stuck Rope
1
0
Skiing
0
1
Fall in River
0
1
Unknown
10
0
Contributory Causes
Climbing Unroped
35
5
Climbing Alone
11
2
Attempt to Exceed Abilities
7
6
Darkness
5
0
Inadequate Equipment
0
4
0
1
Size of Party
One
11
2
Two
28
4
Three
24
7
Four
8
1
Five
5
0
Six or More
15
8
Unknown
20
1
Ages of Individuals
15-20 years
51
12
“Young or College Age”
31
1
21-25
20
6
26-30
5
3
31-35
6
0
Over 35
5
1
Unknown
8
0
Affiliated with Climbing Group
Unaffiliated
32
10
Not Stated
35
1
Member of Mountaineering Club
29
12
Estimate of Experience
None or Little
46
11
Moderate
7
7
Experienced
22
4
Unknown
25
1
Month of Year
1952
1953
January
0
1
February
0
1
March
0
0
April
3
0
May
3
1
June
0
0
July
11
6
August
11
7
September
3
4
October
3
2
November
1
1
December
0
0
ANALYSIS OF ACCIDENTS
As in the past two years the various accidents reported have been analyzed and it is noteworthy that the causes seem to be following a regular pattern with only slight fluctuations from year to year. This year, however, two causes stand out and deserve more careful attention. The first of these is apparent. It is rappelling. In 1953 there were three accidents associated with failure en rappel, whereas there had been only five in the previous six years. This may represent only a random variation but it still focuses our attention on this procedure which should not be so hazardous. In previous years accidents have occurred as the rappel was being established. This type of accident is caused merely by carelessness. Accidents en rappel may also be due to carelessness but should be avoidable if certain precautions are taken:
Rappel slings must not rest over sharp rocks nor make sharp angles and in all cases should be padded.
Pitons used for rappelling must be checked and reseated, if necessary, after each use.
Rappelling should not be started by leaping up and out from rappel points; extremely long leaps while en rappel with sudden arrests put a tremendous strain on the rope and rappel points, as well as upon the individual who is controlling his belay.
Rappel with a safety rope if possible—last man can be belayed from below.
Nylon rope should not be used except in emergency and then it should be at least half inch nylon with double knots to minimize slippage.
This last comment deserves elaboration. One accident in 1953 apparently resulted from the failure of a nylon sling. It is not known whether it was worn through or became untied. As a result of this accident some tests were made on the ease with which knots in nylon cord become untied under stress and this preliminary report has been published in Appalachia 19, 598-601, December, 1953. The important point is that because of the elasticity of nylon, knots in nylon subjected to intermittent stress become loosened. Two near accidents have come to our attention in which there was failure of nylon knots. A1 Steck reported one instance in which he and Willi Unsoeldi were attempting the El Capitan buttress but had decided to retreat. Steck lowered Unsoeldi from his leading position 15-20 feet above using a 1/8" nylon cord sling which had been passed through a piton several times and tied with one knot. They were climbing in the cloud of a nearby waterfall so everything was damp. As Unsoeldi was lowered safely to Steck’s belay spot, the rope sling fell down upon them. They did not recover the sling but thought it had worn through. They could not exclude the possibility of the knot becoming untied. Another instance occurred in the Shawangunks when a leader had just finished his pitch. He reached around to pull up his rope behind him just as it fell off. His bowline had become untied.
The other cause, or condition, is ski mountaineering. This year, three of the accidents could be placed in this category. With the increased interest in this field, more attention should be given to the proper training and education of the public and climbers. This will involve a knowledge of dangerous snow conditions and where the “safe” route lies, a knowledge of what constitutes adequate equipment for extreme weather conditions, a responsibility to contact local wardens and rangers to benefit from their knowledge and experience, and the realization that an easy climb under summer conditions may be extremely difficult or even impossible in the winter, also a minor accident in winter not in an area where there is handy assistance may have serious consequences.
It has been suggested that a more complete bibliography of Mountaineering safety be collected and the committee will welcome any references that may come to the reader’s attention. They will be collected and printed in a future report.
Weston, Mass., Chairman
Springfield, Mass, New York, N. Y. Princeton, N. J. Detroit, Mich.
Denver, Colo.
Benjamin G. Ferris, Jr. William L. Putnam Hans Kraus
Hassler Whitney John F. Fralick Evelyn Runette
John de La Montague Boulder, Colo.
Edward R. LaChapelle Alta, Utah
Ome Daiber Seattle, Wash.
Ralph Johnson Seattle, Wash.
Russell Mcjury Portland, Ore.
William Siri Berkeley, Calif.
Raymond de Saussure San Francisco, Calif.
James Bonner Pasadena, Calif.
Maynard M. Miller Cambridge, England