American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

The Harvard Mountaineering Club

  • Notes
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1950

The Harvard, Mountaineering Club has initiated a careful selection plan for rope leaders in two categories: first-class leaders and second-class leaders. First-class leaders are qualified, in the eyes of the Club officers, to lead and to take full responsibility for any climb that the Club may make. However, first-class leaders do not usually lead climbs with which they are not familiar unless they are with a very strong party. Second- class leaders are qualified to take charge of local practice rock climbs of one rope length and are allowed to lead a second rope on a climb of more than one rope length. Rock climbing and ice climbing chairmen constitute the Safety Committee, which calls meetings of leaders each season to formulate plans for the proper indoctrination of new members. The Safety Committee chooses the leaders for the Club’s various trips.

A toboggan and first aid box are kept at the Club’s Spur Cabin on Mt. Washington, and during the winter a toboggan with first aid equipment and a large shelter tent are cached in Huntington Ravine, where the H.M.C. conducts most of its winter ice climbs.

Illustrated programs are occasionally given during the year at Club meetings to show proper equipment and climbing techniques on rock and ice.

Chairman, H.M.C. Safety Committee:

James Maxwell

Harvard Mountaineering Club

Cambridge, Mass.

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