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Goromity (5,609m), Attempts

Goromity (local name Riyucaibao), toward the southern end of the Siguniang Shan, is the highest unclimbed mountain in the range. In autumn 2010 two Chinese climbers, Luo Biao and Zhou Peng, approached via the Shuangqiao and Xiao Niu Chang Valleys to the west, set up base camp at 4,450m, and attempted the southwest ridge. At 5,250m they retreated due to bad weather and dangerously loose rock.

Hitoshi Onodera and I attempted the peak in August 2011. After reconnoitering the access from both east and west, we dismissed the approach from the Changping Valley to the east as being far too long. We approached from the west, via the Da Niu Chang valley, which is south of the Xiao Niu Chang and leads toward Wuse Shan (5,430m). The Xiao Niu Chang is steep and narrow (as reported by the Chinese), while the Da Niu Chang has a trail. We established base camp in the latter at 4,200m and crossed the ridge north, to place advance base at 4,400m in the upper Xiao Niu Chang. This crossing took four hours.

On August 11 we set off up the couloir toward the col at the base of the southeast ridge but at 5,000m found ourselves dangerously exposed to frequent rockfall. We retreated.

Takao Ohe, Japan, supplied by Tamotsu Nakamura