American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Roma (5,407m) and Danphe Sail (6,103m), Attempts

Asia, Nepal, Kanjiroba Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Elizabeth, Richard Hawley, Salisbury
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2012

Veteran Japanese explorer Tamotsu Ohnishi, with a Japanese companion and a Sherpa, planned to attempt Roma (5,407m), southwest of Saipal, and Danphe Sail, north of Kanjiroba on the Tibet border. Ohnishi had wanted to attempt Danphe Sail during an expedition in West Nepal in 2009 (AAJ 2010).

Approaching Roma during April via Chainpur and Dhuli, the team was stopped at 3,800m when unable to cross a gorge. They retreated and headed for Danphe Sail. In May and June the three established base camp below the south side of the mountain at 3,900m and Camp 1 at 4,200m. Ohnishi was ill from insect bites on his feet that had become infected, and they abandoned the climb. Both peaks have been on the permitted list since 2002 but are officially unclimbed. Ohnishi’s were the first recorded “attempts.”

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