American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, "Mont Maudit", Northwest Face and North Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2012

“Mont Maudit”, northwest face and north ridge. Many road blocks caused by landslides delayed arrival in the Miyar Valley, resulting in our seven-member expedition having only eight days at base camp. While five of the team ascended Masala Peak (ca 5,650m, first climbed in 2006) by a straightforward route, David Fajt and I trekked up the Chhudong Glacier. As we were not acclimatized, there was no point in attempting a serious climb. Instead we made two “acclimatization” ascents. We first climbed Grandfather Ezio Peak (often quoted as 5,750m but rather lower). We had planned to follow the 2005 Marcheggiani-Natalini route (F4c) on the southeast ridge, via the Tiziano-Cantalamessa Col, but inadvertently climbed another ridge farther right, which was probably easier.

We then climbed the mountain immediately south of Geruda Peak, via the northwest face and north ridge. This peak has sometimes been referred to as Mt. Maudit. The climbing was straightforward, about M3 and 60°. We had no altimeter but felt the summit was a little higher than Neverseen Tower (5,750m) to our north.

Martin Klonfar, Czech Republic

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