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South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), West Face, Patagonian Werewolfs

Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), west face, Patagonian Werewolfs. Back in Chalten, after all my compatriots from Poincenot had left, I befriended a Brazilian, Marcos Costa. Just before we were due to depart (I had a ticket to Calafate for March 10) there was a short weather window, so we went up and camped at Piedra Negra. Leaving at 3:30 a.m. on the 8th, we reached the west face of Guillaumet at 9:30 a.m. and began climbing an obvious crack system left of Disfrute la Vida (400m, 6b A0, Pitelka-von Birckhahn, 2009).

The rock was good, and our plan was to climb free. We reached two-thirds height, then checking the time, realized that, as we had to be down that day, we needed to accelerate. The remaining third we climbed in a manner best described as “Russian competition style,” using aid in places for speed. The route involved cracks of all sizes, from thin to off-width. When one crack system became impassable, we changed to another, often via a scary traverse on slabs. After 12 pitches we topped out at 7:30 p.m. on the north ridge, left of the summit, and were down to Piedra Negra by 11:30. We named the route Patagonian Werewolfs, because our ascent and descent took place under a full moon.

Sergey Dashkevitch, Russia, supplied by Anna Piunova, www.mountain.ru