American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Cerro Acay (5,716m), Como Ilegar a Rozarte el Alma

South America, Argentina, Northern Andes, Puna de Atacama

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Marcelo Scanu, Argentina
  • Climb Year: 2011
  • Publication Year: 2012

In summer Cerro Acay, southeast of San Antonio de los Cobres, in the province of Salta, is generally a barren rounded hill, which was first summited by the Incas for religious purposes. However, on February 13 Gustavo González and friend, residents of Salta, climbed the then snow covered south ridge to 5,500m, at which point González descended from the ridge for 50m and reached a 200m couloir, which he climbed over ice and mixed terrain (reportedly up to 80°), then a little rock wall, to regain the ridge. He quickly reached the summit and rejoined his friend. He named the route Como llegar a Rozarte el Alma. The two got lost in a snowstorm during the descent and, once the sun came out, had to re-ascend 500m to the summit, before finally coming down easier terrain.

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