American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Cerro Falso Ilse (2,512m GPS)

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2012

Cerro Falso Ilse (2,512m GPS). Located on the eastern periphery of the Southern Patagonian Icefield, 3.7 km northwest of Cerro Gorra Blanca, Cerro Falso Ilse is mistakenly labeled Cerro Ilse on several old maps. The correct Cerro Ilse is farther north, well within the Icefield. Because of this the double-summited, pointy, unnamed and previously unclimbed peak has recently been referred to as Cerro Falso Ilse. For the many people who access the Icefield via Paso Marconi, Falso Ilse is hidden from view behind Gorra Blanca. However, its rocky tops have attracted the attention of climbers summiting Gorra Blanca. It was Carlos Comesana, a veteran Patagonian climber, who made us aware of this peak.

On December 2, 2008,I made a reconnaissance up Valle Milodon to assess whether the highest point was the north or south summit, but the difference was too small to be distinguished from afar. Prior to making an attempt, Natalia Martínez (Argentina) and I climbed Cerro Gorra Blanca to complete our reconnaissance. Two days later, on the 9th, we climbed Cerro Falso Ilse in exceptionally fine weather.

Starting at the col below the west ridge of Cerro Gorra Blanca, we moved north to reach the south ridge of Falso Ilse. Because we were unable to tell which summit was higher, we visited the nearer (south) summit first. Following a straightforward snow arête, we arrived below the last two pitches, which provided the only serious difficulties on the route. The first crossed mixed terrain up to 60°; the second, over 5th class rock, took us to the top. We could see that the south summit was the higher but only by a meter or so.

Camilo Rada, Chile

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