American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Cashan West (5,686m Peru IGM), North Ridge, Not to Summit

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Sergio Ramírez Carrascal, Peru
  • Climb Year: 2011
  • Publication Year: 2012

On July 25 Carlos Cabaza (Spain) and Diego Fernández (Peru) climbed the rocky north ridge of unfrequented Cashan West as far as the upper snow crest. They approached through the Rajucolta Valley and established base camp on the 21st at 4,250m. On the 24th they made a cache at the foot of the rock section and the following day climbed with only rock shoes. After an initial pitch of 5+, they simul-climbed without protection for 150m (steps of 4+). The next pitch proved the crux—a perfect 6a+ crack. Their fourth pitch was an enjoyable crack up an exposed wall (5). Above they reached the end of the granite at 5,500m and rappelled to the right of their ascent route. The climbers graded their 450m route TD/TD+.

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