American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Chacraraju Este (6,001m), Northeast Ridge, Direct Finish; Taulliraju (5,830m), Southwest Face, Attempt

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO
  • Climb Year: 2011
  • Publication Year: 2012

On June 22 Oriol Baro and Jordi Corominas from Spain reached the summit of Chacraraju Este, having completed a direct finish to the original 1962 French Route (950m, ED1/2, Dubost-Gendre- Magnone-Soubis-Terray), the hardest route in the Blanca at the time. The Spanish pair used a more direct start, climbed in 1993 by Pavle Kozjek and Grega Kresel during an attempt on a direct line up the east face. Once on the French route, they followed it up the northeast ridge to where it cuts across the east face to finish via the upper section of the southeast ridge. There, they continued directly, negotiating a short rock band (A2) and two ice pitches, the first vertical and giving fine climbing. They bivouacked twice at the same spot, once on the ascent and once during descent, grading the route ED.

Baro and Corominas also tried the well-known but unclimbed central line on the southwest face of Taulliraju, left of the Fowler-Watts East Buttress (ED3, 1982). This is a continuation of the lower section of the West Buttress Quebec Variation (TD+, Bourbonnais-Laforest, 1983), past attempts having been put off by lack of ice and the difficult central rock barrier.

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