American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelndal, Tininnertuup II (1,511m), East Face Attempt

North America, Greenland, South Greenland, Cape Farewell Region

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Luis Carlos Garcia Ayala
  • Climb Year: 2011
  • Publication Year: 2012

Our plan was to open a new rock route in Greenland, as part of my seven big walls on seven continents project. Unfortunately, when Giuseppe A. Torre Balderas and I arrived at Nanortalik in July, we had only raised 55% of the budget. We left on the 23rd with neither enough food nor resources to overcome unexpected eventualities. At 1 p.m. the boat dropped us and our 120kg of equipment at the head of the Tasermiut Fjord, agreeing to return on August 15. (We had no communication devices.)

We spent until the 26th establishing base camp in the Hermalndal, Giuseppe injuring his knee on the first day. We then made two carries to the base of Tininnertuup II and started up the east face on the 31st, climbing three long new pitches up the slabs right of Piriton Pillar (700m, British E5 6a, McManus- Tresidder, 2008) to the first terrace. On August 1st we identified a virgin dihedral and climbed four pitches to the site of our second bivouac. To this point we had climbed 375m, with pitch grades 5.8, 5.9, 5.10-, 5.11-, 5.11-, 5.10+, and 5.10+.

When we unpacked the haul bag we found our 10-liter water bottle had burst and soaked everything. Apart from wet gear, we now had only three liters of water for the remaining 600m of climbing. After an unpleasant bivouac we began a rappel descent, drilling anchors. We reached our camp that night, and with not enough food for another attempt, we spent the next five days ferrying equipment to the fjord. On August 9 we attracted the attention of a fisherman and caught a ride to Nanortalik.

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