North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Ruth Gorge, Barrill (2,332m/7,650'), Northeast Face, Alaskan Primer
Ruth Gorge, Barrill (2,332m/7,650'), northeast face, Alaskan Primer. On May 13 Ben Gilmore and Hans Johnstone climbed a new route on the northeast face of Barrill, in a 12-hour trip from bergschrund to the summit, before descending the far side to the Mountain House. Alaska Primer (900m, AK IV 5.9+ M WI5 R) is primarily an ice and mixed climb. It follows a series of corners and ramps, with a few key traverses and a variety of climbing from squeeze chimneys to thin ice to snow mushrooms, before reaching the upper section of the northeast ridge. They had attempted the route earlier in the season but been forced back by spindrift.
Mark Westman, Denali National Park and Preserve