American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Bear Creek Spire, Jamaica Say You Will

United States, California, Sierra Nevada

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Brett Marty, AAC
  • Climb Year: 2011
  • Publication Year: 2012

In September Mike Dahlquist and I climbed a new route on the south face of Bear Creek Spire. The routes nine pitches (5.10) trend just left of center of the tallest part of the face, following various crack and corner systems. We had come to climb the 1971 Rowell route, but, armed only with an archaic description in an old AAJ report, we were unable to find the line. Our route bore little resemblance to the description, and the upper corners had clearly not been climbed. The last three pitches required some aid but would probably go free at 5.12. After comparing notes with the climbing community, we still don’t know where Rowell’s route went, though the story of his solo ascent and 40-mile bicycle return to Bishop is a classic.

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