Dragontail Peak, Chasiri Tail. On July 24, Adam Lawson and I picked our way through eight new pitches (two were long simul blocks) on Dragontail’s northeast wall. Well right of Dragonfly, our route climbs a line of scary choss through a steep swath of stone, before intersecting the never-ending Northeast Buttress. Despite the loose rock (which I had expected) we enjoyed our adventure. At the start of the day, we were unsure if we could climb this wall via new ground in a day. It was complex, and the way was never clear. Survival trumped free-climbing, and we pulled on a few pieces along the way. Usually I’d be racing back up to a line left unfreed, but I think I will leave that improvement in style to someone else. It was one of those lines you only do once. Chasin’ Tail is IV 5.10 Al.
Jens Holsten, AAC