Inspiration Peak, Northeast Buttress. In August 1996 Dana Hagin and I climbed the Northeast Buttress of Inspiration Peak in the Southern Pickets but never reported it. We approached via Terror Creek, climbed to the saddle between West McMillan and Inspirations east ridge, and rappelled and downclimbed to where we could traverse a ledge across to the buttress. From the end of the ledge we scrambled up a loose gully and gained a shallow rib that led up to the buttress. Mostly following the crest, the climbing ranged from 5.5 to about 5.8, with one pitch of 5.10-. Late in the day a perfect ledge for two, with a small snowpatch, appeared high on the route. We bivied there and made the summit the next day. The buttress joins Inspiration’s upper east ridge for the last several pitches. For the complete story of our climb, go to my blog at alankearney.com. Grade III/IV 5.10-.

Alan Kearney, AAC